Musafir & Hasina's Great Kullu Adventure part 3: Trek in the Winter Wonderland

“When it snows
Ain't it thrilling
Though your nose gets a chilling
We'll frolic and play the Eskimo way
Walking in a winter wonderland”

-         Richard B. Smith

Oh yes!!! It’s so thrilling to walk in a Winter Wonderland. Although nowhere near Christmas or Winter, we just could not help remember this famous carol when we saw complete White vistas miles & miles ahead covered in freshly fallen snow!! Walking in this snow was nothing short of magical…well for sometime…until we were midway in the trek!!

15^th April:

8am: After previous day’s torrential downpour, the day was bright & sunny today; which meant perfect weather, absolutely gorgeous scenery in bright spring colours & a better approach road to Jalori pass.

We were rushing to our cab without breakfast, when Karan & Vicky implored us to at least eat something & packed some lunch for us too (we love this home like care). We were eager to have Maggi at Jalori Pass, but were told to still eat something & have Maggi later. After a hurried breakfast, we rushed to our cab & were introduced to our driver & guide, Mr. Mahendra (the sweetest soul ever).

So off we went….

Our route today was going to be Gushaini to Jibhi to Shoja & then to Jalori Pass…which was roughly 35 kms. After reaching Jalori Pass we were supposed to trek to the majestic Raghupur Fort, which was possibly built by the King of Mandi, either as his safe home in time of war or either as his holiday home. The exact history is still unclear. But the fort sounded beautiful, so we chose that as our destination instead of Serolsar Lake.

En route, however, Mahendra ji told us that Jalori is covered in freshly fallen snow (yipeeee….our hearts went!! We had never seen snow!!), which will make the trek to Raghupur fort extremely uncomfortable & advised us to trek to Serolsar Lake instead. (pssstt….Hasina wanted to do both in 1 day…ROFL ROFL…like why not!!) To her “matter-of-fact” type of question, Mahendra ji just chose to laugh!!

So we were off on the rainwashed & now sunkissed Kullu roads with songs playing in our playlist (have you listened to “Aisa sama na hota” from Zameen Aasmaan?? Perfect for this weather J ).

The song so much suited this mood….

 

And here we got introduced to our cutie Gulgul, the dog!!

Gulgul is the watchdog of this particular shepherd. Kullu valley at this time of the year will be dotted with nomadic Shepherds who travel from Dehradun to Himachal & then to Lahaul & Spiti by foot over days & seasons. They come down to plains like Dehradun when it gets harshly cold for the sheep in higher altitudes, and when spring progresses, they start ascending up. All this is done to keep their flock protected from either too hot or too cold weather!!! Some dedication we must say…

So every herd has a dog who protects the flock from wild animals like wolves, leopards, etc. Gulgul, here looked ferocious with his spiky, grungy collar & impressed Hasina with his shiny black coat & “don’t you mess with me collar+look”…awestruck she asked the Shepherd…

Hasina to the shepherd: This dog looks ferocious (judging by his spiky, grungy collar & completely in awe)...have you kept him to guard you flock of sheep??!!

 Shepherd: Yes madam, i have!! But...he's easily scared & loves sleeping most of the time.

 Hasina: Really??!! So he does not guard your flock at all??

 Shepherd: Arre kaha madam...bohot darpok (afraid) hai!! If he hears a growl at night he hides under something!! He's just a part of the herd now & the sheep love him...they are sad if parted with him...

 LOL LOL...look at the cute little Gulgul sleeping his worries away while his "friends", the sheep graze nearby…

 

Wish humans had that sense of bonding, instead of trying to cut each other in stupid rat race!!

After crossing Jibhi, we reached the spectacular village of Shoja.

We must take a moment here & tell you that while Shoja is proclaimed as the Scotland of India, we felt no European country can ever be a match for this spectacular beauty!!

..and keep this in mind that we have clicked these pictures while crossing Shoja & not stopping. Now imagine if someone is staying at Shoja, what gems of true beauty that person can experience in this heaven.

Shoja is absolutely untouched & in fact has no hotels at all (thank god for that!!). If you wish to stay there, there are a few homestays & if you are staying at Raju’s, they also provide a camping experience in Shoja (visit their FB page – Tirthan Trails). Just imagine living on a green meadow in Shoja in a tent & waking up to limitless expanse of mountain ranges all around you J J Just the thought is enough to humble you from within!!

 

We just could not take our eyes off Shoja, but we had to go ahead, so we finally went ahead on our route to Jalori Pass.

If Shoja was gorgeous in bright sunlight, the route to Jalori Pass was something we have seen in Game of Thrones!!

Flaked with freshly fallen snow, the jungles on either side of the road were like a chocolate cake complete with coniferous trees & dusted with sugary, flaky snow!! It’s beauty cannot be described. Musafir had to try with all his might to contain a squealing & gleeful Hasina, who had never seen such avenues in real life!!

 

This was also the point where our & many other cabs had to stop for more than half an hour!!

Reason: well a gigantic bus was ahead of all of us & could not ascend. The fresh snow & sleet had made the muddy path to Jalori a challenge to drive in (how Hasina thanked Musafir for hiring a cab, because there was no way either of us could have driven on this patch in our Figo). The bus tyres were skidding in the muddy slush & the bus driver, who was new, was about to faint (his face had actually gone white). The pathway on which our cars were driving was also extremely narrow, so the bus had covered all of that path, and now if it skidded…well there was nowhere to go but down!!

Mahendra Ji & other drivers got down & helped the poor guy, while we played in snow (heheheee...) with some kids!! The snow was soft & flumpy & snow fight was very, very tempting right now!! J J

When the bus in question finally managed to & started to drive up, there were whistles galore (we were stuck for past half an hour), when suddenly, another bus (same size) came from opposite direction!! Screech..halt…brake…collective gasp…and then collective “oh no” filled the air!! Now what??!!

The road was broad enough only to contain one bus…two buses, same size, facing each other, with one driver about to pass out!! How will this ever happen??!! Not to mention the road was also lined with cabs like ours. Oh we were here till sundown!!

But, you are dealing with Hiamchalis here…they can do anything!! J J J

So yes, somehow, we don’t know how…the buses crossed each other’s path, with all of us watching with baited breath, and brushed past us too (how, just how do they find space here). Hasina again thanked Musafir for not getting his Figo here & forcing a cab as a choice upon them.

Once the route cleared, off we went, seeing jaw dropping scenery along the way..

 

Finally we reached our destination (or so we thought)…the gorgeous Jalori Pass

It was like a whiteout to the senses, with colours coming in pops, like providing a bright life to a calm background.

 

Jalori pass is the route that connects Manali & Kullu to Shimla belt of Himachal. Using Jalori Pass you can complete “The Great Himachal Loop” by starting from Chandigarh – Shimla – Fagu – Narkanda – Kotgarh – Sarahan - Ramnagar – Reckong Peo – Sangla – Chitkul – Jalori – Shoja – Jibhi – Tirthan – Naggar - Manali – Chandigarh (whoa!! Will do this loop one day). Jalori is an extremely scenic route, providing you never seen before vistas, but you need either a good SUV to do this loop or a small car like an Alto. A sedan or hatchback is not exactly your choice of vehicle here.

Anyways, once we reached Jalori Pass we were stunned to see SO MUCH SNOW!!!

 

We had never seen so much snow in all our life!!

We seemed dwarfed & humbled by the magnanimity & sheer brilliance that lay before us!!

 

The snow was soft, flumpy, flaky & it was asking for a snow fight…it was gorgeous beyond words!! Hasina felt like she was in a Yash Chopra movie (only she did not have something chiffon…lol)

Our indulge was interrupted by a bemused Mahendra ji, who asked us where we wished to go, Raghupur Fort or Serolsar lake. Raghupur Fort was a super challenging trek in this condition, as it involves absolutely uphill climb in snow, and could be extremely difficult; therefore, we chose the Serolsar Trek instead.

The trek was 6 kms. one side, and we were told it was a very easy trek…so off we started.

 

For 1.5 hours we went at super languid pace, taking in the superbly beautiful scenery, feeling like we were in the opening scene of Game of Thrones Season 1 (remember…where the Nightwalkers are seen for the first time). The snow was frankly getting hotter, making us feel very warm. To our surprise we found out that in the sun the snow becomes flumpier & warm, but in shade it melts & becomes excessively cold!! We always thought it was the other way round.

Soon from vast open expanse of snow we reached deep in the jungle.

 

It was JUST the 3 of us for as far as we could see. Just 3 of us!! It was a bit eerie & a bit magical at the same time. The noise of civilisation had drowned out completely, and all we could hear was pin drop silence, where even a twig snapping at a distance could make us jump. Pin drop silence!!

Only broken by snow that was falling off the trees all around us (and many times would aim & fall straight inside Musafir’s collared shirt…hehehe…) Hasina found it extremely funny when Musafir would start dancing & yelping the minute absolutely cold snow dived inside his shirt – what an aim!! Until Hasina’s laugh was stopped when a good sized clump of snow straight dropped on her head with a THUD!!

OUCH!! That hurt…that hurt bigtime!! It was Musafir’s turn to laugh now, while Mahendra ji looked bemused to say the least & Hasina huffed along. J J J

After 1.5 hours however, the fun started dwindling. The snow was now shaded & becoming difficult to walk in.

 

We had never seen snow, let alone trek in it, so we went completely unprepared. No snow boots, no trekking stick (very crucial), no light bags. This became a challenge after a while. It’s fine to walk around & kicking light & flaky snow, but when the snow is ankle or calf deep and has become crunchy & cold in shade (no you don’t make a snow cone out of it!!), your whole foot will suddenly sink deep inside, and bringing it up really tires your leg. Now imagine doing this for good 5 kms, constantly & you know what exactly we mean!!

To top it, it was not as if your foot will sink in comfortable sheet of snow, it can at times be dangerous & pointy rocks like this, that can actually injure your leg (attach pic), or a puddle so deep that it might cause your feet to twist.

 

To get through this, Mahendra ji taught us the basic & simple step of “heel-sole-toe”. Always remember this while snow trekking, if like us, you are also doing it for the first time. We generally push ourselves with our toe first when walking, here that is not a good idea, because your legs will sink deep in the snow again & again. The “heel-sole-toe” method allows you to have surer footing & you will sink lesser in the snow, thereby saving you a lot of effort.

But this was a part of the problem, the next one being that the snow was extremely slippery when we reached deeper inside, causing us to slip & control ourselves again & again. So when we not sinking, we were slipping & vice versa. We were in fact hardly walking in midst of this. Since we had covered just 1 km in 1.5 hours, due to stopping a lot to click pictures & walking in languid pace…it was time to really speed up. So the cameras went inside, because controlling ourselves here was a task, and only Hasina’s Note 2 was out, which she used to click rest of the pics.

Hasina’s pace was much slower as she has never been an athlete or trekker & was also quite unwell that day. Coupled with that, her knee that had faced a surgery some 5 years back was also a matter of slight concern, although not much. This was slowing the pace of the trek as well.

Mahendra ji sweetly took full responsibility of Hasina, and took her bag & guided her super patiently through the excessively narrow & slushy, snowy paths. By this time Ice had percolated inside our shoes & needless to say our feet were quite cold. The trek was becoming tiring & excessively tough as we progressed (attach pic)

 

 

Trust us, there was a point where we wanted to just give it up & go back. The lake was just not coming (despite Mahendra ji saying – bas 15 minute aur – for past 2 hours.). It was truly backbreaking & a nightmare. We could not gather pace as we had to constantly be watchful of where we were putting our foot. So sinking & slipping & taking baby steps, we managed to reach an open clearing, where there was lesser snow, to rest for a while.

 

It was at this point that Hasina completely gave up & urged Musafir & Mahendra ji to go ahead while she would just sit there. But Mahendra ji was uncomfortable at this proposition, saying that the lake was actually just 10 mins away. But Hasina was absolutely adamant to not go further, unless Mahendra ji showed her some hyenas & Himalayan fox, and then off she went again!!

It is completely one thing to play & freak around in snow outside a comfortable resort, it is another thing to walk 6 kms in that snow with absolutely zero preparation. Walking on narrow, broken paths, covered completely in snow, where we did not know how deep our legs would sink in…and where apart from slipping & sinking, we also face trekking uphill, makes you completely breathless & tired; and all this on empty stomach & with no water at all. Plus, Hasina was unwell too.

 

Finally after what seemed like hours or days (in reality 3.5 hours), we reached Serolsar Lake & were completely lost!!

 

Completely speechless!!

Here, right before our eyes, lay this huge expanse of monochromatic wonder!! All frozen!! It was like we were in the film Ice Age!!

A vast diameter of lake absolutely frozen right in front of our eyes!!

 

The lake also had a bridge around it. Part of it free to walk, & part of it covered deep in snow.

But sadly, it was already 3.10pm when we reached the lake. As much as we wanted, we could not stay beyond 20 mins. here; simply because trekking back again meant at least 3 hours on this route or maybe more since we were tired, and it would get dark & impossible to trek the last stretch.

We were awfully hungry, but there was absolutely nothing to eat at all. Hasina had luckily kept a bar of chocolate that morning in the bag. The chocolate was quickly broken into 3 equal parts to share amongst the 3 of us. Mahendra ji was initially reluctant to accept his share, but Hasina would not take no for an answer. After we ate our respective pieces, Mahendra ji told us, he did not even have breakfast that day. He was absolutely hungry. We felt pangs of guilt; if only he had told us earlier, we would have given the largest share to him, undoubtedly.

The view of Serolsar Mata Temple at the backdrop of the lake was gorgeous beyond words.

 

So was the enchanting story of the lake. Apparently no diver to this date has been able to determine the depth of the lake at all. Mahendra ji also told us that once 60+ full length ropes (each rope is 20 feet standard size) were tied back to back and one end was tied to a huge rock. This was dropped inside the lake, and yet, it could not reach the bottom!! This was astounding to say the least. The depth of Oceans is also determined at this age, but weirdly the depth of this lake is still not determined!! This is nothing short of a miracle. A bottomless water body, where strangely & eerily not even a speck of leaf could be spotted.

Despite being surrounded by trees & despite a temple being right there, you cannot spot a speck of dirt on the lake. If someone happens to throw something in the lake, it is said that the birds nearby swoop in immediately to pick it up & throw it outside.

The supernatural mysticism of this lake enthralled us to no end!!

However, it was time to trek back.

On our way back we met more trekkers, all of them locals of Kullu. It gave us a bit of heart to see that they were huffing & panting too, if not in equal measure. So maybe we were not as big losers after all!! J J

We found a local family, who had given up at the exact same point where Hasina has given up as well. They were also tired beyond words, & it was nice to tell them to not miss it & go ahead just a bit to see the spectacular sight.

The trek back was more or less just getting through the stretch. Last 1 hour was nothing short of torture. With the snow now melting to form muddy slush, ice cold water filled our shoes & socks completely. We were walking like zombies at this point. Eager to just reach & hopeless, thinking when we would reach. We were tired, hungry, cold, sore and were just walking on & on & on.

When we suddenly heard drumbeats at a distance!! We had reached civilisation!! We could see rays of sun & see the spot from where we had started!! Oh the joy…the JOY!! We could see our starting point.

 

OH THE JOY!!

Until, Mahendra ji suddenly intervened our limpy “race” to the Jalori Pass:

Mahendra ji: Wait wait, sir madam, hope you realise you have completed a wonderful trek!!

Us: Yes Mahendra ji, we do!! Trust us, now can we go.

Mahendra ji: No no, you visted Serolsar Mata!! It’s a big thing. Walked all this stretch.

Us: We realise that!! Now can we go!!

Mahendra Ji: No..no…sit on this hillock & pose…let me take your picture!! It’s your first trek.

Us: How sweet Mahendra ji..but please let us go!!

Mahendra ji: Arre when will you come here ever!! Let me click your picture. (imagine, the man was hungry except two morsels of chocolate he ate…and his concern was to click our picture).

We posed for one pic (notice Hasina’s smile through gritted teeth)

 

Mahendra Ji: Now one sitting one that hillock…wait I will help you climb up.

Hasina (breaking down & not to mention scarily filmy): Mahendra ji…let us go please!! I can see civilisation, I can smell Maggi cooking, I can see smoke coming out of chimneys, I can see myself sitting in the warm interiors of the comfortable cab, let me gooooooo”

(God!! Drama Queen!! Musafir thought…)

Mahendra ji was amused beyond words & took us back. We promptly reached a dhaba & asked the guy to prepare all things good for Mahendra ji – whatever the man desired!! It was absolutely impossible doing this trip without him!!

For us, we chose hot Maggi & a bottle of water. We rushed to the cab, while Mahendra ji preferred the warm hearth of the dhaba. Oh it was a delight to take off our shoes & socks. Our feet were numb & could not feel sensation, till we gave it knuckle massage to circulate blood flow. The dhaba owner also made some masala tea for us (bless his soul) and gave it to us in the car!! Chai & Maggi after a backbreaking trek!! What else is required.

After half an hour & when it was dark we started back.

The drive back had all 3 of us in complete silence, until we reached Mahendra ji’s home en route & met his beautiful wife and two cute little children. He entreated us to come inside for a cup of tea. We were so touched but declined politely as we were too tired & wanted to reach Raju’s.

On our way back the whole valley was moonlit & that was a sight in itself. Meanwhile we got a call from Karan at Raju’s asking as to where we were & were we fine or not!! This home like care is what makes Raju’s such a special & warm place.

We finally reached Raju’s & upon reaching when we tried to tip Mahendra Ji with half of what he had earned in taking us back & forth, over & above…he absolutely refused. Who does that??!! Who refuses a tip of half of your actual earning over & above!! These are Himachalis for you.

He said “You are our guest, and taking you around diligently is our duty. Don’t tip me, but next time you come, come with me”; well then Hasina had to step in with her filminess to cajole him into taking the tip. (God…you should have heard the drama dialogues!!)

Mahendra ji was left to laughing & finally relenting & accepting the tip!! You cannot stand in front of Drama Queen, when she comes to it!! J J J

Hats off to this brilliant man!! This trip was absolutely incomplete without him!!

 

We went straight to our room & downed a large peg of Rum first!! Much needed. We requested Karan to push dinner till 10.30 for us, which he readily complied to. Dinner was a quiet affair, with us wolving down copious amount of food!! It was just what was needed…delicious, hot & soul satisfying!!

That done we straight away crashed for the day!!

What a day it had been!!

P.S: Drama Queen woke up in the middle of the night, shouting “Bahar nikalo…mujhe baraf se bahar nikalo (Save me from the snow)...it is all over me!! Snowflakes!! Oh..oh..Nightwalkers….nahiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii”

ROFL ROFL ROFL….

Next Up: Our last day at Raju’s L and their family portait we captured J. Also another adventure ahead – this time in deep jungles!!